It started with a casual comment from Tom about a tree that needed to come down next to his cabin and how he thought it would make nice lumber. It turned into numerous days holding on to the screaming end of a chainsaw full throttle for 15 minutes at a time. Looking at the beautiful stack of slabs drying in the garage it definitely seems worth the trouble.
Once we committed to giving it a go we had to decide what type of mill to get to cut the slabs. There are two types of portable saw mills: chainsaw or bandsaw. The chainsaw mills are basically guards that fit over the bar of the saw and allow the saw to follow a flat surface evenly. Bandsaw mills consist of the bandsaw itself and usually some sort of track that allows the wood to slide past the saw. We went with a chainsaw mill for multiple reasons but the main two were cost and ease of use. It's true that a chainsaw mill will not be able to crank out the amount of wood that a bandsaw mill could with identical trees simply because the thickness of the chain - much of the tree ends up as dust, but for our needs that dust doesn't add up to the cost of a bandsaw mill. But the biggest benefit is that the sections of tree can be slabbed in place, avoiding the task of moving 12 foot long sections of 28" thick tree!
We traveled to Vallejo to visit Granberg and purchased our Alaskan Chainsaw Mill. Out of the box it was easy to set up and the documentation was adequate (we got the MK III). We sprung for the helper handle which allows two people to endure the torture, one on either end of the saw - definitely makes the cutting go quicker.
For the first cut a rail, made of (hopefully) straight 2x4s on edge, is placed on top of the tree. The mill runs along the 2x4s and peels off what appears to be a ready to use bench. From there the mill runs directly on top of the flat surface that was just created at whatever depth has been set. Once we got everything dialed in we were able to cut a full slab in 12-15 minutes depending on the thickness of the tree. The main issue we encountered was due to the fact that the bar we are using requires a spacer to fit correctly on our power head. The spacer was made too thick and so the bar would not seat properly causing the chain to constantly loose tension. After breaking the tensioner screw on the saw and talking directly with Granberg about the issue it still was not clear exactly what was going on. But on our second try after securing a few spare tensioner ...